How to cure atomizer jump resistance

Hello everyone, the electronic cigarette is divided into two important parts: the power supply part and the atomizer part. Comparing the two, the part that is prone to problems is the atomizer. The author collected them. There are about six common problems, namely: jump resistance, oil frying, oil leakage, locking, rubber ring, and paste core. In the words of an old Chinese medicine practitioner, these are six chronic diseases, the “stubborn diseases” of the atomizer. Every e-cigarette lover has encountered these problems more or less.

Today we will talk about the common problem in atomizers, “jump resistance”. No matter what kind of appearance occurs, it will affect our mood of smoking electronic cigarettes. Commonly used atomizers can be divided into kf structure, typhoon structure, ud structure and drip oil structure. I will talk about where the jump resistance of these representative atomizers comes from.

One, jump resistance

After installing the atomizer, there will be fluctuations in resistance instability during use. Using a voltage regulator box will clearly see the change in resistance on the display. The resistance detection is not accurate, resulting in a mismatch between the voltage output and the actual resistance, such as a 1.0Ω resistance (output 17w), because the jump resistance becomes 1.5Ω (the output power 17w will be easier to paste the core when the output power is 1.5Ω), so Jumping resistance will cause a lot of unnecessary trouble to our use.

The three atomizers represented by the kf series are kflp, gobang, and kf4, which are well known to everyone. Among them, the base structure of kflp and Gobang is almost the same. So we put these two atomizers together. And kf4, people who know a little bit know its fierce name, it is notoriously easy to jump resistance and easy to leak oil.

Gobang and kflp: First of all, the structure of Gobang is very simple. The whole base including the 510 motor columns are all negative poles. Only the flat-head screw in the middle is the positive pole, which leads directly to the positive block of the silk table. The simple principle is that the whole body is negative. The insulating pad is blocked, and the middle positive electrode runs through the insulating pad and is fixed on the thread of the positive electrode platform. The kf structure is simple, so the probability of jumping resistance is reduced. Pinch the silk-making platform in the middle of the cloth, hold a flat-blade screwdriver in your left hand, and tighten it on the positive pole of the base, but master the strength, otherwise the insulating rubber pad under the silk-making platform will be squeezed and deformed, so master the strength.

The question of kf4 is not a sentence or two that can be clearly expressed in words, so the author found a video made in the past, a series of videos about kf4, so I hope the officials understand.

The representative of the typhoon series is of course the typhoon, and of course there are hurricane atomizers and firebird atomizers, all of which have the same structure. We pick the hurricane atomizer as an example.

Hurricane atomizer: The structure of the base of the Hurricane atomizer is simple, so the phenomenon of jumping resistance will rarely occur in normal use. There are a total of three flat-head screws near the 510 interface of the base, and they are removed respectively. The base of the Hurricane atomizer can be divided into two parts. The structure is simple and compact, and the place where the problem may occur is the positive screw where the base and the inner tank are connected.

The positive screw is made of gold-plated material, and the bottom is separated by an insulating rubber pad. There is also a spring to increase the contact area to ensure power-on, but there is no card position. If we continue to screw it, it will sink in. Therefore, it will affect the detection of resistance.

Drip oil series, why does the drip oil series have jump resistance? Because the author did have such problems in the process of only using it, especially the Seiko drip oil atomizer. First of all, the positive and negative electrodes of the oil-dropping atomizer are the most stable types of atomizers, but the problem of jumping resistance or local heating of the heating coil occurs in the screws. The oil-dropping screws, especially the Seiko oil-dropping screws, are relatively sharp. After locking the heating wire, the sharp screw will be pinched off in the electric shock column, or half of it will generate heat, so the resistance detection is not accurate, there will definitely be floating, and the coil of dripping oil will heat up too fast, it may be your screw Not tightened. In fact, the jumping resistance of dripping oil is the problem of the lock wire.

The positive and negative poles of the d series atomizer are very simple, and the same problem occurs. In the case of jumping resistance, there will be a pinch off phenomenon when the heating wire is locked. However, the screws of the ud are chamfered later. Therefore, the probability of an item jumping out is very small. In the same way, if there is a jumping resistance, it will appear on the electrode lock wire, just like the oil drop atomizer.

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